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Longan Bare Root Seedling

Original price was: $26.00.Current price is: $17.00.

The dragon’s eye fruit — sweet, floral, and easier to grow than its famous cousin the lychee. A longan tree rewards patience with hundreds of fruits every summer.

6+ hrs direct, full sun Light Keep soil consistently moist, never soggy Water 9 USDA Zones 30–40 ft (prune to size) Mature Height
Alive Arrival Healthy on arrival, or we replace it
Free Shipping On orders $99+

The Longan Tree: All the Flavor of the Tropics, None of the Drama

Lychee gets the headlines. It is the tropical fruit people have heard of, the one that shows up at Asian markets wrapped in net bags at premium prices. But ask anyone who has grown both, and they will tell you: longan tree is the smarter choice. The fruit is smaller — smooth tan-brown skin that peels with a pinch, revealing translucent white flesh that is sweet, floral, and firm, like a peeled grape infused with honey and musk. The Chinese name means “dragon eye,” a reference to the dark seed visible through the translucent flesh like a pupil staring back at you. It is one of the finest-tasting fruits in the world. And the tree that produces it is more cold-tolerant, more reliable, and more forgiving than its famous relative. For the home grower who wants the tropical fruit experience without the diva behavior, longan is the answer.

What Longan Does Better Than Lychee

The comparison matters because most tropical fruit growers start with lychee and regret it. Lychee is notorious for alternate bearing — a massive crop one year, nothing the next. Longan tree produces more consistently, year after year. Lychee struggles below 28 degrees Fahrenheit; longan tolerates brief cold snaps to 24 degrees. Lychee is picky about soil pH; longan handles a wider range. The trade-off is that longan fruit is smaller and the harvest window shorter — two to three weeks instead of four to six. But for a home grower who wants reliable, delicious fruit rather than a rollercoaster of feast and famine, that is an easy trade to make. A mature tree produces 100 to 200 pounds of fruit annually. University of Florida IFAS Extension covers tropical fruit care in detail for home orchardists.

A Tree That Knows When to Work and When to Rest

Longan is evergreen, with a dense canopy of dark green, compound leaves that stay lush through winter. In spring, the longan tree covers itself in panicles of small, creamy yellow flowers — not showy, but fragrant, and a magnet for bees. The fruit develops through summer and ripens in late summer to early fall. After harvest, the tree rests. No complicated off-season care. No winter protection in zones 9 through 11. A light annual pruning to maintain shape and remove dead wood is most of what it asks. It is, by tropical fruit standards, remarkably self-sufficient. Browse our full fruit tree collection for more tropical treasures.

How to Eat a Longan

If you have never eaten a fresh longan, here is the ritual: pinch the thin shell between your thumb and forefinger. It cracks and peels away in one motion, revealing a perfect sphere of translucent white flesh. Pop the whole thing in your mouth — the flesh is juicy and firm, sweeter than lychee with a honeyed, slightly musky finish. The single dark seed separates cleanly. There is no mess, no peeling with a knife, no juice running down your arm. Longans are the easiest tropical fruit to eat out of hand, and they are exceptional in fruit salads, chilled desserts, and cocktails. Fresh fruit stores for a week in the refrigerator. What you cannot eat fresh dries beautifully — dried longans are intensely sweet and chewy, used in Chinese soups, teas, and desserts for centuries.

Quick Facts

  • Botanical name: Dimocarpus longan
  • Common names: Longan, dragon eye, dragon’s eye
  • USDA hardiness: Zones 9 to 11 (tolerates brief cold to 24°F; more cold-hardy than lychee)
  • Mature size: 15 to 30 feet in ground; easily kept at 8 to 12 feet with annual pruning; smaller in containers
  • Sun: Full sun, 6+ hours daily minimum
  • Pollination: Self-fertile — a single tree produces fruit; bees improve yields
  • Years to first fruit: 2 to 4 years from a grafted sapling
  • Harvest window: Late summer to early fall; fruit ripens in clusters over 2 to 3 weeks
  • Yield: 100 to 200 pounds annually from a mature tree
  • Pet safety: Fruit flesh is safe; seeds are inedible and should be kept away from pets

Ready to grow the tropical fruit that experienced gardeners choose over lychee? Read the Care Guide tab below for planting, watering, and harvest instructions. Curious about the economics? See how much a backyard orchard actually saves you.

📖 Free Care Guide Included

Every plant ships with our complete care guide — watering, pruning, troubleshooting, and seasonal calendar. Read the full guide before your tree arrives →

New to fruit tree care? Read our complete Fruit Tree Care Guide — soil, watering, pruning, and organic pest control for every backyard orchard.

Every Longan Bare Root Seedling we ship comes from our nursery with years of growing experience behind it. Here's what to expect — written by the people who grow them.

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Arrival

  • Ships as a dormant bare-root plant — no soil, no pot, just healthy roots wrapped to retain moisture.
  • May look like a leafless stick on arrival — this is completely normal for bare-root trees during dormancy.
  • Roots should feel firm and slightly moist; soak them in water for 2–6 hours before planting.
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Settling In (First 1–4 Weeks)

  • Plant as soon as possible after arrival — do not let the roots dry out.
  • Breaking dormancy takes 2–6 weeks depending on temperature and variety — patience is key.
  • Keep soil evenly moist (not waterlogged) until the first new leaves appear.
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Growth & Progress

  • First new leaves typically emerge within 3–6 weeks of planting as the tree wakes from dormancy.
  • Year one focuses on root establishment — above-ground growth may be modest while the tree builds its foundation.
  • Most bare-root fruit trees begin fruiting in their second to fourth year, depending on variety and care.
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Care Tips From Experienced Growers

  • Water deeply and regularly throughout the first growing season — strong roots make a strong tree.
  • Apply a 2–3 inch layer of mulch around the base, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk.
  • Stake the tree if planted in a windy location; remove the stake after the first year.
  • Delay fertilizing until new growth appears — tender new roots can be burned by early feeding.
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Things to Watch For

  • A bare-root tree that has not leafed out by late spring may have dried out before planting — check the roots for signs of life.
  • Overwatering in heavy clay soil is a common mistake — the soil should be moist but never soggy.
  • Sunscald on young trunks can be prevented with a tree guard or whitewash for the first year or two.

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