Bacon Avocado Tree Care Guide
Cold-hardy Type B avocado — the most frost-tolerant commercial variety, surviving to 24°F. Smooth green skin that stays green when ripe, mild light-flavored flesh. Ships 20–28 in tall in nursery grow bag with soil.
Shipping restriction: Due to agricultural regulations, we cannot ship this plant to: CA, FL, AZ, HI. Orders to these states will be cancelled and refunded. This protects your local agriculture from pests and diseases. See full shipping policy.
Year-round care calendar
- First fertilizer of the year (citrus/avocado formula)
- Inspect for winter tip damage — Bacon is cold-hardy to 24°F but young trees need checking
- Begin weekly deep watering
- Spring growth flush — normal to see some older leaves yellow and drop
- Apply 3-inch mulch ring, 6 inches from trunk
- Increase watering frequency as temperatures rise
- Deep water 2× per week in warm weather
- Second fertilizer application
- Watch for persea mites on leaf undersides — hose off with water spray
- Fruit development — consistent watering critical for fruit size
- 10–15 gallons per week for young trees
- Check for salt burn on leaf tips — flush soil with rainwater if needed
- Deep water weekly — do not skip during hot spells
- Refresh mulch
- Bacon fruit reaches full size mid-summer — skin stays green (Bacon does NOT darken when ripe)
- Maintain consistent watering
- Third fertilizer application
- Reduce nitrogen in fertilizer ahead of fall
- Reduce water gradually as temperatures cool
- Bacon fruit matures on tree — green skin, slight yield at neck = ready
- Prepare frost protection materials for young trees
- Fourth and final fertilizer of the year
- Bacon harvest window begins — November through March is peak
- Test-ripen one fruit: softens in 3–5 days on counter
- Harvest begins — pick as needed, fruit holds well on tree
- Install frost cloth for trees under 3 years if below 30°F
- Reduce watering to minimal — winter rain sufficient
- Peak harvest — Bacon is the go-to winter avocado
- Protect from hard freeze below 24°F — wrap trunk, cover canopy
- Water only during extended dry periods
- Continue harvesting — fruit stores on tree through March
- Hold all fertilizer until spring
- Inspect for frost damage — prune in late February
- Light prune before spring growth flush
- Remove frost-damaged wood
- Type B flowers begin opening — good time to check pollination partner
Care at a glance
Plant a pair — Bacon Avocado Tree - Cold-Hardy Type B Pollinator, Smooth Green Fruit + Hass Avocado Tree
Compatible pollinator pair. Adding a second variety within 50 feet increases yield by 20–30%. Both plants ship together in one box.
$178.00 $160.00 Save 10%
How to plant your Bacon Avocado Tree
Harden off in shade
Place your tree in a shaded spot for 2–3 days. Keep the grow bag soil moist. Your tree arrives grafted, leafed out, and ready to grow. Bacon is the most cold-hardy avocado variety — it survives temperatures down to 24°F once established, making it the best choice for Zone 8 growers.
2–3 days, shaded spot
Dig the right hole
Dig twice as wide and exactly as deep as the grow bag. Avocado roots are shallow and wide-spreading — a wide hole encourages lateral root growth. In heavy clay, plant on a raised mound 12–18 inches above grade to prevent root rot.
2× width, match soil level
Position, backfill, water in
Set the tree so the graft union sits 3–4 inches above soil. Backfill with native soil. Tamp gently — never compact. Apply 3 inches of coarse mulch in a 3-foot ring, keeping mulch 6 inches from the trunk. Water deeply with 5 gallons. Bacon is a Type B flower — pair with Hass (Type A) for 20–30% higher yield.
5 gallons, slow at the base
Bacon Avocado Tree Care Guide — ongoing care
Spring (March–May)
Water: Ramp up as temperatures rise. Deep soak 10–15 gallons weekly for young trees, 20+ for mature. Let top 2 inches dry between waterings.
Fertilize: First feeding in March with citrus/avocado formula (with zinc and iron). Young trees: 1/4 cup. Mature: 1–2 cups. Scatter under canopy and water in.
This season: Inspect for winter damage on branch tips. Apply 3-inch coarse mulch ring (keep 6 inches from trunk). Bacon is Type B — flowers open female in the afternoon, male the following morning. Second fertilizer in May.
Summer (June–August)
Water: Peak demand. Deep soak 2–3× per week above 85°F. 15–20 gallons weekly for young trees, 25–30 for mature. Consistent water during fruit set determines size.
Fertilize: Third application in August. Watch for iron chlorosis: yellow leaves with green veins = treat with chelated iron.
This season: Bacon fruit is green-skinned (does not darken like Hass) — thin skin makes it more susceptible to persea mite. Check leaf undersides for brown spots. Refresh mulch to 3 inches. Salt burn on leaf edges = flush soil with deep watering.
Fall (September–November)
Water: Reduce slightly. Soak deeply but less frequently. Let top 3 inches dry between waterings.
Fertilize: Fourth and final feeding in October. Stop November–January.
This season: Bacon harvest begins November — earlier than Hass. Fruit is ready when it reaches full size (8–12 oz) with smooth green skin. Bacon does NOT change color when ripe — go by size and calendar, not color. Reduce nitrogen to signal fruit maturation.
Winter (December–February)
Water: Minimal — only during extended dry spells. Once every 3–4 weeks.
Fertilize: None. Resume February.
This season: Bacon is more cold-hardy than Hass — mature trees tolerate 24–26°F. Young trees: protect below 30°F with frost cloth and 6-inch root zone mulch. Harvest continues through March. Bacon is an excellent pollinator for Type A varieties (Hass, Gwen). February bloom restarts the cycle.
Pruning: keep it low, keep it open
When: Late winter or early spring (February–March), before the spring growth flush. Never prune in fall or early winter — new growth triggered by pruning will be killed by frost.
Young trees (years 1–3): The goal is structure. Select 3–4 well-spaced scaffold branches. Pinch the central leader to encourage lateral branching. Remove suckers below the graft union immediately.
Mature trees: Thin the interior for light penetration and airflow — an open vase shape is ideal. Remove dead, diseased, or crossing branches. Heading cuts (cutting a branch back by 1/3) stimulate branching and keep the tree compact. Avocado trees left unpruned reach 40+ feet — prune annually to keep fruit within arm’s reach.
DON’T: Do not remove more than 20% of the canopy in one year. Do not leave stubs — cut to a branch collar or bud. Do not paint pruning wounds — avocados seal themselves. Do not prune during rainy periods (fungal infection risk).
What’s wrong with my Avocado?
Still stuck? Send a photo to artisticbonsai.sz@gmail.com — we diagnose it for free. Response within 24 hours.
Harvesting your Bacon Avocados
When: November through March. Bacon avocados do NOT change color when mature — the skin stays green. You must use other indicators. Size: fruit reaches full size (6–12 oz). Skin: develops a slight yellowish cast and loses its glossy sheen. Float test: mature fruit floats in water (oil content is high enough).
How to pick: Cut the stem with clippers, leaving a short stub attached to the fruit. Do NOT pull or twist — you will tear the skin and the fruit will rot before ripening. Use a pole picker for high branches.
Ripening: Avocados do NOT soften on the tree. After picking, Bacon avocados ripen at room temperature in 4–7 days. To speed up, place in a paper bag with a banana or apple (ethylene gas). Ripe when the neck yields slightly to gentle thumb pressure. Once ripe, refrigerate for up to 3 days.
Storage on tree: Bacon fruit holds well on the tree — harvest as needed over 2–3 months. This is one of avocado’s great advantages: built-in storage on the branch.
Frequently asked questions
Why is it called Bacon avocado?
Named after James Bacon, who developed the variety in Buena Park, California in 1954. It has nothing to do with bacon the food — though the creamy, nutty flesh is excellent on sandwiches. Bacon is a hybrid of Guatemalan and Mexican avocado subspecies, giving it the cold-hardiness of Mexican types and the rich flavor of Guatemalan types.
How cold-hardy is Bacon really?
Bacon is the most cold-hardy commercial avocado variety, surviving temperatures down to 24°F when mature. Young trees (under 3 years) need protection below 30°F. In Zone 8, plant against a south-facing wall for radiant heat. This is the variety you want if you are pushing the avocado hardiness boundary.
Do I need a second tree for pollination?
Bacon (Type B) is partially self-fruitful. A single tree will produce fruit on its own. But pairing with a Type A variety (Hass, Gwen) within 50 feet increases yield by 20–30%. The Type A and B flowers open at different times of day — having both types extends the pollination window.
What does Bacon avocado taste like?
Mild, creamy, and slightly nutty — less rich than Hass but smoother in texture. The flesh is pale yellow-green with a higher water content than Hass, making it lighter on the palate. The skin is thin, green, and smooth — easy to peel. Some prefer Bacon’s clean, mild flavor over Hass’s heavy richness.
How do I know when fruit is ready since it stays green?
Bacon avocados do not turn black. Pick one fruit when it reaches full size and has been on the tree at least 8 months from fruit set. Let it ripen on the counter. If it softens evenly without shriveling, the rest are ready. The skin develops a subtle yellow cast and slight dullness when mature. Over time, you will learn the look.
Can I grow Bacon avocado in a container?
Yes — Bacon grows well in containers. Use a 25-gallon pot minimum with excellent drainage. Container trees stay at 6–8 feet and still produce fruit. In cold zones, move the container indoors when temperatures drop below 30°F. Container-grown trees need more frequent watering and fertilizing than in-ground trees.