How to Plant Freesia Corms

Freesias are the best-kept secret of the cut flower world. The fragrance — clean, sweet, like baby powder and spring air — stops people mid-stride at the farmers market. I grow a dedicated cutting bed every year, and from late spring through early summer, my house smells like a high-end florist. The secret: start with the biggest corms you can find. Our freesia corms are graded for size — larger corms produce dramatically more flowers.

Corm Size — The Factor Nobody Discusses

Planting — Timing by Zone

• Zones 9–11: Plant in fall (October–November) for winter and spring blooms. Freesias need cool growing temperatures — this is when they thrive in warm-winter climates.
• Zones 3–8: Plant in early spring (March–April) after the last frost. Or start indoors in February in pots, 6 weeks before your last frost date, and move outside when the weather is cool but frost-free.
• How I plant: Pointed end up, 2 inches deep, 3 inches apart. In pots: 6–8 corms in a 6-inch pot for a dense display. In the ground: groups of 10–15 for a mass of color and fragrance. The RHS notes freesias are among the most fragrant flowers for cutting.
• Soil: Well-draining, fertile. I mix 60% garden soil, 20% compost, 20% coarse sand. Freesias rot in heavy clay. Containers: quality potting mix with extra perlite.

Cut Flowers — 10+ Days in the Vase

• When to harvest: Cut when the FIRST bud on the stem has just opened and shows color. The remaining buds open sequentially in the vase over 7–10 days.
• How to cut: Use clean, sharp scissors. Cut at the base of the stem at a 45-degree angle, early in the morning when stems are fullest of water. Place immediately in room-temperature water.
• Vase life extension: Change the water daily. Add a drop of bleach per quart to prevent bacterial growth. Keep out of direct sun and away from fruit bowls — ethylene gas from ripening fruit causes flowers to fade faster.
• Do NOT cut the foliage. After cutting flowers, leave the leaves intact. They feed the corm for next year’s blooms. Let them yellow and die back naturally — this takes 4–6 weeks.

After Blooming — Corm Storage

• Zones 9–10: Leave corms in the ground. They will naturalize and return year after year.
• Zones 3–8: After foliage has completely yellowed, dig up corms. Dry in a warm, shaded spot for 1–2 weeks. Brush off soil. Store in a paper bag in a cool (50–60°F), dry, dark place until next season.

Frequently Asked Questions

Freesia Not Blooming? Corm Size and Temperature

This is a common question. The answer depends on your plant’s specific conditions. Check the care details and troubleshooting section above — the information you need is covered in this guide.

When to Plant Freesia Bulbs: Zone by Zone Calendar

This is a common question. The answer depends on your plant’s specific conditions. Check the care details and troubleshooting section above — the information you need is covered in this guide.

Seasonal Planting Calendar

Pest Prevention — Freesias Are Surprisingly Tough

Freesias have few serious pests, but here is what to watch for: Aphids on new growth in spring — blast off with water or apply insecticidal soap. Slugs and snails on emerging shoots — hand-pick at dusk, apply diatomaceous earth around the planting area. Botrytis (gray mold) in wet, crowded conditions — space corms adequately and avoid overhead watering. The best defense: plant in well-draining soil, give them full sun, and do not overcrowd. Healthy freesias in the right conditions are remarkably trouble-free.